though the name conjures up a strip bar in Manilla with live ping pong shows, and the surrounding area basically one big red light district teeming with highly professional Chinese ping pong xiao jies, X-TA-SEA is in fact an island of warm respite amid a sea of debauchery. If you want to sit at a bar and drink a decent pint without a girl in a leather mini-skirt whispering "me love you long time!" in your ear, this is the place to come. Conversely, if you do want such a thing, you need only go to any of the dozen or so bars just outside the door. Run by an American expat from Chicago who couldn't shake his addiction to ESPN, X-TA-SEA boasts a 100-inch TV with satellite dish. The owner is kind enough to open odd hours to accommodate the Super Bowl, or some obscure football match being played in a distant, perhaps more moral part of the world.